Rayburn Country, the most hidden hidden gem in Texas golf, is aptly named.

The Rayburn is for the resort’s close neighbor, Lake Sam Rayburn, the massive Army Corps of Engineers reservoir. Biggest lake in Texas, they say. I believe it. Mr. Rayburn, you may recall, was the 24-term Congressman from Bonham, up by the Red River, which is to hell-and-gone from Rayburn Country in the tropical southeast corner of our massive state.

Note that it’s Rayburn Country, not Country Club.  As we said, appropriate, because the rurality surrounding the resort in Brookeland can hardly be overstated. Type As and claustrophobes may be made uneasy by the drive deep into the dreamy denseness of the Piney Woods, but I had a ball rolling through the rain forest—where am I, Thailand? I asked no one—and I loved observing the little towns along the way.

The lake and what swims in it are the area’s magnets, not golf. “The most popular game fish,” according to the website, “is the largemouth bass, hosting numerous tournaments each year.” Those must be some fish!

Another clue about the essence of the place is the rack of shirts by the counter in the pro shop. They ain’t the usual polo: long sleeves, collars, vents, rip-proof fabric, pockets, and loops to which to attach something or other. I bought one. “$37.35,” said the friendly man behind the counter. “This shirt works for both around here.” I knew what he meant.

For a couple of reasons, Rayburn Country struck me as a place for guys. By all reports, the fishing is great; and while I’ve read no data on the gender breakdown of those involved in the piscatorial arts, I have no doubt that it’s a mostly male sport. The golf is also amazingly good; but while plenty of women play the greatest game, they also often enjoy seaweed facials and pedicures and Shih Tzu massages while on vacation. No spa at Rayburn Country. Furthermore, the rooms at the Lodge Hotel are perfunctory, a long way from the luxury girls like to get on a getaway. A lot of the on-line offering is ungrammatical, which doesn’t inspire confidence in the place.

On the other hand: the clubhouse is big and new and the food is great. The pool looked cool and blue as pools are supposed to. Rooms at the Lodge Hotel cost a mere $89—in the high season! November through February, you pay just $69. And then there’s that unexpectedly well designed, beautifully maintained, and fun-to-play golf course. They pop you only $40 to play it–with a cart! I am running out of exclamation points!

Rayburn Country works because it has the basics of good drainage, very happy wall-to-wall Bermuda grass, thoughtfully placed cart paths, beautifully framed holes, and terrific variety of shots to greens and off tees. It is fun to play, and no pushover.

I’d go back, and I’d play 36 holes a day.

 

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